By Dairyland Sentinel Staff
It usually starts with a vintage sign, the building is surrounded by cars in a packed lot. Inside, the lighting is dim, the wood paneling is abundant, and the bartender knows the names of the locals, exactly how to muddle, and when not to meddle. This is the Wisconsin Supper Club. It is not just a restaurant. It is a time capsule of Midwestern hospitality that has survived fast food and fine dining trends to remain the beating heart of our state’s culinary identity.
For the uninitiated, a supper club is defined by what it is not. It is not a place to eat and leave. It is a destination where the meal is the evening’s entertainment. From the Northwoods to the shores of Lake Michigan, these establishments serve as guardians of a slower, more respectful way of life. At the Dairyland Sentinel, we believe understanding the etiquette of the supper club is essential to understanding Wisconsin itself. So, here goes
The Ritual: How to Arrive
The first rule of supper club culture is that you never go immediately to your table. Upon entering, you head straight to the bar. This is where the community gathers and where the evening begins. Even if your table is ready, it is customary to have a pre-dinner cocktail.
This pause allows you to decompress and socialize. In many classic clubs, the hostess will not come to find you at the bar. Instead, a light system or a loudspeaker will announce when your table is prepared, allowing you to finish your conversation without rushing.
The Drink: Brandy is King
You cannot discuss Wisconsin dining without addressing the Brandy Old Fashioned. While the rest of the world makes this cocktail with whiskey, Wisconsin consumes more than half of Korbel’s annual brandy production. The origins trace back to the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago, where Korbel introduced their spirits to a German immigrant population that already had a taste for brandy.
When ordering, specificity matters. The bartender will expect you to choose your “wash” (the mixer):
- Sweet: The most popular choice. Topped with lemon-lime soda like Sprite or 7Up.
- Sour: Topped with a grapefruit soda (like Squirt) or a sour mix.
- Press: Short for “presbyterian,” this is half seltzer and half lemon-lime soda for a less sugary finish.
The Appetizer: The Relish Tray
Once seated, you will likely encounter the most iconic visual element of the experience: the relish tray. Before salads or soups arrive, the server presents a stainless steel or crystal platter loaded with cold snacks.
A proper Sentinel-approved relish tray includes a specific lineup:
- Fresh Vegetables: Radishes, scallions, celery, and carrots on ice.
- Spreads: A crock of cheddar cheese spread (often Merkts) and occasionally a liver pâté.
- Pickled Goods: Beets, herring, or peppers.
- The Vessel: A basket of crackers or breadsticks on the side.
This course is communal. It forces everyone at the table to pass plates and share food before the main meal arrives, reinforcing the social nature of the club.
The Main Event: Friday Fish and Saturday Steak
The menu at a supper club follows a strict weekly rhythm. Friday is exclusively for the Fish Fry. This tradition has roots in Catholic customs of abstaining from meat on Fridays, but it has evolved into a secular statewide holiday. You will typically choose between cod (often baked or beer-battered), perch (a freshwater favorite), or walleye. It is almost always served with coleslaw, rye bread, and your choice of potato.
Saturday is reserved for Prime Rib. The cuts are generous, often labeled as the “Queen Cut” (smaller but still massive) and the “King Cut” (bone-in and daunting).
After Dinner:
Ice cream drinks and pulltabs! IYKYK
Three Icons of the Industry
While there are hundreds of clubs across the state, a few stand out as pillars of the tradition.
Ishnala Supper Club (Lake Delton) Located in the middle of Mirror Lake State Park, Ishnala means “by itself alone” in the Ho-Chunk language. The building is designed around the trees, with pines growing through the roof and into the dining room. It famously does not accept reservations, leading to multi-hour waits that patrons happily endure at the wraparound bar overlooking the lake.
The HobNob (Racine) Perched on the bluffs of Lake Michigan, the HobNob is a blast of retro glamour. With its dark interior, purple accents, and view of the water, it feels like a set from a classic movie. It is one of the few places that still requires a level of dress code decorum and feels distinctly like a special occasion.
Schwarz’s Supper Club (St. Anna) This family-run giant near Elkhart Lake is proof that rural locations can draw massive crowds. Schwarz’s is famous for its efficiency and portion sizes. The steaks are cut in-house, and the sheer volume of food moving out of the kitchen on a Saturday night is a logistical marvel.
Preserving the Legacy
The Wisconsin Supper Club is more than a place to get a great Prime Rib. It is a cornerstone of our heritage. It reminds us that dinner should not be rushed and that our neighbors are worth talking to. Next time you see that billboard or sign in the distance, pull over.
Order an Old Fashioned Sweet. You are home.
Recipe Card: The Wisconsin Old Fashioned
For those looking to recreate the experience at home, this is the standard Wisconsin build.
Ingredients
- 2 oz Brandy (Korbel is traditional)
- 1 Sugar Cube (or 1 tsp simple syrup)
- 2-3 dashes Angostura Bitters
- 1 Orange Slice
- 1 Maraschino Cherry
- Splash of Lemon-Lime Soda (Sprite or 7Up)
Instructions
- Place the sugar cube in a rocks glass.
- Saturate the sugar with bitters and add a splash of soda.
- Add the orange slice and cherry, then muddle until the fruit is crushed and sugar is dissolved.
- Fill the glass with ice cubes.
- Pour the brandy over the ice.
- Top with lemon-lime soda (Sweet).
- Garnish with a fresh orange slice and a cherry (sometimes pickled mushrooms or olives are used for a savory twist).
